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ON THE WIND. 



ON 

[YACHT SAILING 

A SIMPLE TREATISE FOR BEGINNERS 

UPON THE ART OF HANDLING 

SMALL YACHTS AND BOATS 

BY 

THOMAS FLEMING DAY 

Editor of "The Rudder," Author of " On Yachts and Yacht Handling," "Hints to Young 
Yacht Skippers," " Songs of Sea and Sail," etc. 




NEW YORK AND LONDON : 
Thi Rudder Publishing Compan 

1904 



•;u 



UBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

APR 24 1807 

K «opyrlght Entry 

[TuAr, II. f for- 

cuss A HXc, Ne. 






COPYRIGHT 1904 
BY 

Thomas Fleming Day 
all rights reserved 



PRESS OF 
THOMSON & CO. 
MURRAY STREET, ] 



(^'^ 



CONTENTS 

Special Remarks 9 

General Remarks 11 

The Boat and Rig 19 

The Sides and Tacks 23 

The ^Ielm 27 

Nomenclature of Rigging and Sail 33 

Sailing On the Wind 35 

Sailing Off the Wind 43 

Reefing and Jibing 48 

Taking Care of the Boat 52 

Maneuvers 56 

Rules of the Road 60 

Glossary 65 

Diagrams and Plans 73 

List of Books 96 



UNIFORM EDITION 
RUDDER^ON^SERIES 



Bound in blue bitckram and gold, 32mo. 
illustrated 



ON YACHTS AND YACHT HANDLING. By 

Thomas Fleming Day. Price $i. 

ON YACHT SAILING. By Thomas Fleming 
Day. Price $i. 

ON MARINE MOTORS AND MOTOR 
LAUNCHES. By E. W. Roberts, M. E. 
Price $1. 

ON YACHT ETIQUETTE. Second Edition 
Revised. By Captain Patterson. Price $i. 

SOUTHWARD BY THE INSIDE ROUTE. 
Reprint from The Rudder. 

HINTS TO YOUNG YACHT SKIPPERS. By 
Thomas Fleming Day. Price $i. 



PREFACE 

THERE is no difficulty in the learned writing for 
the learned, but it is extremely difficult to com- 
pose a work for the instruction of the ignorant. 
The more comprehensive and exact knowledge the writer 
has of his subject the more arduous is the effort to 
express his thoughts in such simplicity as will make it 
understandable to those who have little or no knowledge 
of the subject he treats. This is doubly so when the 
subject is one Hke sailing — an art whose language is 
wholly technical and almost totally divorced from the 
common expressions of life. It is impossible to trans- 
late sea language into land language ; nor is it possible 
to explain the conditions and operations of the art with- 
out employing sea terms. 

In this work I have endeavored to avoid as far as is 
possible the employment of intricate or obscure technical 
language, and where it is used have endeavored to 
explain the meaning and define the application. This 

7 



book is intended for the use of persons who are sup- 
posed to be altogether ignorant of the art of saiHng. 
It is a primer and, therefore, is ahnost absurdly simple 
and profuse in explanatory details. But my experience 
as a teacher has taught me that such books cannot be 
too simple, and that in order to be understandable they 
must be loaded with explanations of explanations until 
nothing is left to explain. To those who know, this 
will seem unnecessary, but it must be remembered that 
many who will learn from this book, have not only 
never handled a sailing boat, but have never seen one 
before, and have but extremely crude notions of how 
the canvas and helm are employed to drive and direct 
them. 

In regard to the glossary : The definitions given are 
those that define the terms as used in sailing or navi- 
gating small craft, and may have a different meaning 
when applied to larger vessels. It is very difficult to 
exactly define many nautical terms, as they are words 
in action, and consequently present different phases, 
as they are dififerently employed. In many cases only 
one who is a trained seaman can comprehend their exact 
purport or understand their significant application. 



SPECIAL REMARKS 

THE first question before you start to learn to sail is : 
Do you know how to swim? If you don't, you 
have no business in a sailing boat — in fact you 
have no business on the water. No parent should allow 
his boy or girl to have a sailboat until they have learned 
to swim. It is not difficult to learn to swim; any child 
can be taught that art in ten days, and it should be a 
compulsory course in all our schools. If people knew 
how to swim, nine-tenths of the drowning accidents that 
do happen would not. Every summer a large number 
of young people are drowned in this country through 
the overturning of boats or by falling overboard. Had 
these persons been taught to swim the majority of them 
would not have been drowned. A person who can swim 
has confidence. If suddenly thrown in the v/ater he or 
she retain their presence of mind, but if unable to 

9 



10 

swim they become panic stricken, and are not only 
drowned but in their struggles frequently drown others. 

Another custom prolific of accident on the water is 
the overloading of boats. The green hand should be 
warned against this practice. Never take a lot of people 
out in a boat, particularly a sailboat ; especially do not 
take out women and children, or men who are not 
familiar with boats. 

Another thing, never play the fool in a boat. A man 
who with others in a boat plays such tricks as rocking 
or trying to carry large sail in a breeze, climbing a 
mast, or any other silly stunt, is a fool, and is not 
fit to be trusted with any sort of a craft. 

A properly designed and well-constructed boat is 
perfectly safe in the hands of a sensible person, and 
if properly used be made to give pleasure not only to 
the owner but to others. Sailing is one of the safest 
of our sports; very few yachtsmen lose their lives while 
boating. It is nothing like so dangerous a sport as 
bicycling, automobiling or carriage driving. I have met 
thousands of yachtsmen during my long service in the 
sport, but of all my acquaintances I can only recall one 
who was drowned. 



GENERAL REMARKS 

IF you are going to learn to sail get a small boat. 
Men who learn in large boats seldom become good 
helmsmen. Another thing, do not learn in what 
is called a non-capsizable boat; get a boat that can be 
upset. The modern outside ballast, non-capsizable, fin- 
keel or semi-finkeel, is a very easy vessel to handle, and 
it requires very little skill to sail them; as a fact, you 
don't sail them; you simply steer them. The old- 
fashioned, inside ballast, capsizable, long-keel craft was 
a very different proposition, and it required consider- 
able skill to handle such properly. It is for this reason 
that the best sailors we have ever had , graduated from 
the helms of that type of boat. 

The best boat for a boy to get to learn in is one of 
not more than twenty feet length ; a fifteen-footer is 
better. She should be half-decked, and be of such con- 




WIND ABEAM. 



13 

struction and weight that even if filled she will float. 
It is better to have a boat that requires little or no ballast. 
If in a place where the water is generally smooth, the 
Lark type is an excellent craft to learn in ; if where it 
is rough, get one of those cheap sailing dories. The 
Rudder Skip is also a good boat, but is somewhat more 
expensive. Another good boat for a beginner is a 15- 
foot, half-decked, cat-rigged boat ; a boat with consider- 
able freeboard and a water-tight cockpit. Such a boat 
can be built in first-class style for about $250 or $300. 
I strongly advise the beginner to use the cat rig, no 
matter what type of hull he employs. 

Many begin in a rowboat, fitted with a sail. These 
are generally poor craft, not being of the proper form 
for sailing. While they will do, if nothing better can 
be had, they are far inferior to a properly designed sail- 
ing dory or a Lark. If the beginner starts in a poor 
sailing craft he is apt to get disgusted with the results 
of his work and give up. 

After you have learned to handle a boat under cat 
rig you can get one with a jib, and learn to sail the 
more complicated rig. It is not best at first to go in 
for too many sails, as it means much more gear and 



o 




^ 




15 
this is apt to confuse the beginner, and make the task 
of learning harder. 

By starting to learn to sail in a capsizable boat you 
will gather the first and most important part of sailoriz- 
ing, and that is caution, and you will gain from sailing 
such a boat that nicety of touch which is the acme of 
helming skill, and which can never be acquired in an 
uncapsizable craft. Knowing that inattention to your 
work will perhaps result in a spill, you will be con- 
stantly on the alert, and you will learn that by quick 
and proper movements of the helm you can control and 
maneuvre your boat so as to keep her on her bottom 
at all times. 

If you have your boat ready take a day when the 
wind is light and steady and get somebody to go with 
you who understands sailing. Let the old hand tend 
the sheet while you handle the tiller. Then sail up 
and down in a quiet place until you get confidence in 
the boat and in yourself. This will soon come when 
you find that you can perform the different sailing 
maneuvres. It is a good plan after you have the hang 
of handling the tiller to choose a mark to windward, 
and to start and beat up to it, then turn the mark and 




,-^- 



OFF THE WIND. 



17 

run back again. Repeat this several times as it will 
give you practice in sailing both on and off the wind. 

If the wind is strong and you feel afraid of the boat, 
don't go out, but wait until the conditions are more 
favorable to have your first try. If you get afraid or 
rattled, as it is called, by the boat getting a knockdown 
in a puff, just let her come up in the wind and rest, and 
you will see that she is perfectly safe, and your courage 
will soon return. 

I have taught many — both boys and girls — to sail, and 
I always put them right at the helm, and insist upon 
them staying there. If they get in a tight place the 
beginner will generally want to give up the helm. At 
such a time I make them retain it, and by a little judicious 
advice and a few words of encouragement get them 
through the difficulty. This at once instills confidence. 
One of my favorite tricks is when the green hand is 
approaching the shore on a tack to leave him and go 
below, pretending to pay no attention to his actions. 
If he is good for anything, he will when the right time 
arrives go about. Once he has done this by himself he 
is confident, and will not hesitate to do it again. This 
is the principal thing to make a beginner understand. 



i8 
that he must depend upon his own judgment and not 
rely upon yours. 

Some persons can never be taught to sail. They 
can learn to steer perhaps, but never can learn to handle 
a sailing boat. l^liaye^ionnjLXhsX <:omparativel^L_few 
females candeam.4o-sail, but when they have the sailor's 
instinct it is very strongly developed, and they make 
excellent skippers. They are far more fearless than 
men, and can invariably be relied upon to carry out 
orders, even to the death. 



THE BOA T AND RIG 

HAVING picked out the boat that best suits your 
ideas and pocket, start right in and learn all 
about her. Study out her rig, and learn the 
proper names of everything from keel to truck. Nothing 
sounds worse than to hear a man who is sailing a boat 
call the ropes, spars, etc:, by wrong names, and use in 
speaking of the boat and her actions unnautical language. 
One of the quickest and easiest ways to learn the nomen- 
clature of the boat is to build and rig a small model. 
You will in this way not only learn the proper terms 
but also get an understanding of how a boat is rigged. 
The first lesson I had was in trying to re-rig a topsail 
schooner, the model of an old U. S. man-of-war. I was 
about seven or eight years old, but having the boat 
mania stuck to the task, although it was long and diffi- 
cult, and at last, with the kind assistance of a ladv. 




A LARK. 



21 

succeeded in completing the job. In this way I captured 
at an early age a thorough knowledge of how to rig. 
You need not make a block model, just step your mast 
in a flat board. 

If you are going to buy a boat, not having the oppor- 
tunity to borrow or steal one, look about for a good 
second-hand craft. This if in fair condition will do to 
start with, for you will, as soon as you have learned, 
want a bigger and better one. If you can use tools, and 
have the materials and space, I would advise building 
your own boat, as by so doing you will gather knowledge 
that will prove invaluable to you in your after days. 
But don't build from your own design. Such boats are 
invariably failures. A man must have considerable 
knowledge of boats before he can design a proper one. 
A deal of money has been wasted, and many have 
been sadly disheartened and made sick of the sport at 
the outset because they have built a boat after their own 
plans, and it has turned out a failure. If you are going 
to build get one of The Rudder How-to Books, and you 
will from it be able to construct a good sailing craft for 
a reasonable price, with the least amount of labor. 

If you buy a boat be sure the hull is in good con- 



22 

dition, and that the boat is not a heavy and consistent 
leaker. Also, find out if the boat will sail on the wind, 
for many small boats will not. If the hull is all right, 
buy the boat. The condition of the sail and rigging 
is not so important, as you can renew these for a few 
dollars, and it is better to start off with a new sail and 
first-class gear. A boat with old canvas and weather- 
wasted gear will not be satisfactory, and it is better to 
spend a few dollars and get these things right. 

In rigging the boat use as few ropes as possible. 
A green hand, like a canoeman, generally wants to 
decorate his spars with all the strings he can get on, but 
the less rope and the simpler tackles you use the easier 
will it be to handle the craft. 

Whatever you use be sure it is strong. Always use 
the best cordage you can buy ; the difference in price 
per pound is only a few cents, but there is considerable 
dilTerence in the way the two kinds will work. A rope 
used for running should render freely through the block. 
To do this it must be soft and pliable. Use blocks with 
a larger swallow than the rope size you intend to run 
through them, then the rope won't stick when it gets 
swollen with dampness or rain. 



THE SIDES AND TACKS 

THE sides of a boat have two sets of names, the use 
of which is apt to confuse the green hand, but if 
you once clearly understand how these terms are 
applied you will experience no trouble in properly em- 
ploying them. 

The right-hand side of a vessel when standing look- 
ing toward the bow is called the starboard side. 

The left-hand side of a vessel when standing look- 
ing toward the bow is caller the port side. 

These names are permanent, and no matter which 
way the boat is turned the starboard side is always the 
starboard side and the port side always the port side. 

The other names for the sides of a vessel are not 
permanent, but are always changing, shifting from side 
to side, as the boat is turned about. Their particular 
position is determined by the direction of the wind. 
These names are lee side and weather side. 




bAlLINU DURIES, 



25 

The weather side is that side of a vessel upon which 
the wind blows. 

The lee side is that side of the vessel which is farthest 
from the wind, and is, in a fore-and-aft rigged craft, the 
side on which the sail is stretched. 

Now you will understand that, in consequence of the 
vessel turning round and presenting first one side to the 
wind and then the other, these names are continually 
shifting from side to side. 

For instance, if the wind is blowing on the port — left- 
hand side — that is the weather side, and the starboard — 
right-hand side — is the lee side. Turning the vessel 
round, so that the wind blows on the starboard side, that 
becomes the weather side, and the port side becomes the 
lee side. 

Having these sides and their names clearly fixed in 
your mind you will be able to understand what a tack is. 

When a vessel is sailing on a wind we say she is on 
the port tack or starboard tack, meaning the way she 
is heading in regard to the direction of the wind. This 
tack is determined by the side upon which the wind blows. 

A vessel is on the starboard tack when the wind 
strikes upon her starboard side and the boom of her 



26 

mainsail is over on the port side. The reverse of this 
puts her on the port tack. 

Or, to be more concise, when the starboard side is the 
weather side the boat is on the starboard tack. When 
the port side is the weather side the boat is on the port 
tack. 



THE HELM 

A BOAT or any vessel is steered by a contrivance 
called a rudder, which is hung like a door on 
hinges, and swings freely from side to side. This 
rudder is moved by a handle called a tiller, which is 
attached to the post and projects forward into the boat. 
The whole apparatus for steering the boat is called the 
helm, but in this chapter, when we speak of the helm, 
it must be understood to mean the tiller. 

When the helm is put, i. e., pushed in one direction, 
the rudder moves in the other. For instance, if the helm 
is turned to the right the rudder moves to the left, and 
vice versa. The result of such a movement of the helm 
is to turn the boat's bow in the direction the rudder 
points, so that the boat's bow, or head as we say, turns 
the opposite way to the way the tiller is pushed. Re- 
member, that if you put the helm to the left the boat's 

27 



^ 




'^^.,1. ]:.rt^i-^ 



SHOAL-DRAUGIIT SLOOP. 



29 

head will turn to the right; if you put the helm to the 
right it will turn to the left. 

The left side of the boat, as I have explained, is 
always called the port side ; therefore, if I order you to 
put your helm to port you must push the tiller toward 
the left. This will move the rudder toward the star- 
board side, and as the boat's bow moves the same way 
as the rudder it will also move to starboard. 

But in a sailing vessel, when going under canvas, we 
do not usually order the helm to be put to starboard or 
port, but employ terms that derive their signification 
from the direction of the wind under whose influence 
the vessel is moving. These terms are up and down, 
and a-lee and a-weather. 

To put the helm up you push the tiller toward the 
side of the boat on which the wind is blowing. This 
causes the vessel to move her head away from the wind 
— to fall off, as it is called. 

To put the helm dozvn you push the tiller toward the 
side on which the sail is. This causes the vessel to move 
her head toward the wind — to luff, as it is called. 

The easiest way to fix these two actions in the wind 
is this : When a boat is heeled, i. e., tipped, as she usu- 



30 
ally is when sailing on the wind, the helm is put up by 
moving it toward the high or up side, and it is put down 
by moving it toward the low or down side. 

To put the helm a-weather is the same as putting it 
tip, or toward the weather side of the boat. To put the 
helm a-lee is the same as putting it down or toward the 
lee side of the boat. 

Up — a-weather. 

Down — a-lee. 

The green hand must get the above information 
firmly fixed in his mind, as it will save him lots of future 
trouble. I have met men who have sailed for years who 
confuse these orders through not thoroughly under- 
standing what they mean. 

You will frequently hear a man when conning the 
helm of a boat — that is, directing the steering — tell the 
helmsman to keep off, meaning by that to put the helm 
up and cause the boat to move further away from the 
wind or course which the boat has been holding; or else 
he will order the helmsman to luff, meaning for him to 
put the helm down, and bring the boat's bow nearer to 
the wind. 



31 

The order to steady or right the hehii means to bring 
the tiller amidships, or in such position that it does not 
influence the boat in either direction. 

Large boats are steered by a wheel, which is simply 
an apparatus used to give additional power, so that the 
helm can be turned easily; but as we are dealing with 
small boats using a tiller, we will not bother at present 
to understand its working. 




A SAILING DORY. 



33 

NOMENCLATURE OF RIGGING AND SAIL. 

Down HAUL— A rope for hauling down a sail. 

Clewline — A line used to draw together a sail so that it can 

be easily furled. 
Halyards — The tackles by which a sail is hoisted. 
Guys — Are ropes used to support or control a spar, and are 

either permanent or shifting. On spars they generally act 

in opposition to the sheet. 
Topping lift — A rope or tackle for lifting and holding up the 

end of a boom. 
Sheet — The rope or tackle by which a sail is controlled or 

trimmed. It is made fast to the clew of the sail, or to the 

boom. 
Shrouds — Ropes generally of wire employed to support a mast 

or bowsprit by holding it sidewaj^s. They are attached to 

the rail by chain plates, and are set up with either lanyards 

or rigging screws. 
Stays — Ropes used to support or control a spar in a fore-and- 
aft direction. 
Luff — The fore edge of a sail. 
Leach — The after edge of a sail. 
Head — The upper edge of a sail. 
Foot — The lower edge of a sail. 
Peak — The upper outer corner of a triangular sail, also the 

upper corner of a jib or gaff topsail. In this book the more 

common name head is used. See sail plans. 
Throat — The upper fore corner of a triangular sail, also called 

the nock. 
Tack — The lower fore corner of a sail. 
Clew — The after lower corner of a sail. 



M W 



< o 



SAILING ON THE WIND 

SAILING on the wind, or by the wind, or close- 
hauled, is a purely mechanical action, the motion 
being the result of opposing two forces, the wind 
pressure and the water pressure. The wind pressing 
on the canvas forces the boat sideways, her form 
causes the water to resist this movement, and as it 
is easier for her to progress in the direction of her length 
she moves that way. Her sails being arranged so as to 
transfer this movement in the direction of the bow, she 
moves ahead. It is to prevent her going sideways that 
a boat is given a keel or centerboard. 

In sailing to windward a boat's sails are trimmed flat 
— that is, the sheet is hauled in until the foot of the sail 
lies nearly parallel to the line of the keel. How close to 
being parallel depends largely upon the form of the hull, 
an easily driven model being able to sail with a flatter 



36 
sheet than one of coarser dimensions. No rule can be 
laid down for trimming the sheets of a boat when saihng 
on the wind, it depending upon the form of the vessel, 
the strength of the wind, and the condition of the water. 

As the movement of the boat is dependent upon the 
pressure exerted upon her canvas by the wind, it is 
necessary that the wind strike the sail on one side and 
fill it, and that it exert this pressure in a constant manner. 
Therefore, the boat's bow cannot be kept pointing in the 
direction of the wind, but must be made to approach 
it at an angle. This angle, in a good sailing vessel, 
is one of 45 degrees, or four points by compass. 

Let us suppose that the wind is blowing from the 
North. Now, if the boat's bow is pointed North the cur- 
rent of air will pass along both sides of her sail and exert 
no pressure upon the canvas, acting just as it does upon 
the fly of a flag. But if we turn her head slowly round 
to the West we will find that the breeze begins to press 
on the canvas, gradually filling it until when her bow is 
pointed Northwest, or four points away from the wind, 
the whole sail will be distended with pressure. She is 
now said to be on a tack or board, and will move ahead 
in the direction Northwest. 



DIAGRAM C. 
BEATING TO WINDWARD LONG LEG AND SHORT LEG. 



38 

But let us suppose that the point we wish to reach is 
directly North. If we continue sailing on this North- 
west tack we can never reach it. In order to do so we 
must have the boat move in another direction. Four 
points, or forty-five degrees, on the other side of North 
is the direction Northeast. If our boat will fill her sail 
with a North wind when pointed Northwest she will 
also necessarily fill it when pointed Northeast, But 
how are we to get her into a position so that she will 
point Northeast? By performing a maneuvre which is 
called tacking or going about. 

To do this we put the helm down, or a-lee — that is, 
push the tiller toward the side on which the sail is, the 
rudder going in the opposite direction. In consequence 
of this the boat's bow begins to move toward the North. 
As it does so the wind leaves the sail, the canvas shakes, 
and then as her head swings past North the sail begins 
to fill again, with the breeze on the opposite side, until 
when she at last points Northeast it is rap full once 
more. That is what is called tacking a vessel. 

If we continue to tack, remaining for an equal distance 
on each board or leg, the boat will gradually approach the 
North point by a zig-zag movement, until she reaches it. 



39 
Sometimes, owing to the wind not being directly 
ahead, we are able to remain longer on one tack than on 
the other. This is what is called making a long and 
short leg. 

To properly sail a boat on the wind requires constant 
and minute attention to the helm and the canvas. The 
best way for the new hand is to sit low down in the 
cockpit to leeward of the tiller; this places him nearly 
under the boom. Let him look up and watch his sail 
just at the throat; here is where it will shake first. To 
sail the boat close he must just keep that portion of the 
sail shaking — or lifting as it is termed. After a few 
days at this work he will get so that he can tell instinc- 
tively by the feel of the boat just where she is, and will be 
able to keep her close without constantly watching the 
luff. Some skippers sail a boat by the jib luff, sitting 
to windward to see it; others by the feel of the wind on 
the face. This is a good guide at night when you cannot 
see the sail. But those things will come to the novice 
in time. 

You should constantly practice altering the sheets of 
your boat, until you find out under which trim she goes 
best. You can mark the positions of the sheets by 



40 
inserting between the strands of the rope a bit of colored 
worsted; also alter the position of the weights, either 
ballast or live, until you get the boat to her proper trim, 
as this has much to do with a boat sailing well to wind- 
ward. 

If when trimmed to sail on the wind a boat shows 
herself to be hard on the helm it may be the result of her 
form, of the position of her ballast, or centerboard, or 
through having too much after sail. If she gripes — that 
is, tries to go up in the wind — slack of5f a little mainsheet, 
and if she has a jib trim it flatter. If she tries to do the 
other thing run off to leeward ; ease the jib sheets. The 
worst fault a boat can have is that of carrying a lee helm. 
Never buy a slack-headed boat ; they are an abomination. 

In rough-water sailing a boat going to windward 
wants her sheet eased. Do not trim the sails dead flat, 
nor try to sail the boat very close to the wind ; give her 
what is called a good full, and keep her moving all the 
time. Remember, that every wave is a hill that the 
boat has to climb over, and she needs all the drive possible 
in order to do it. You must learn how to help her with 
the helm to take these seas easily, first by luffing and 
then by bearing away. 



41 
A man can only become a good windward helmsman 
by constant practice and by paying attention to every 
detail. He must have a quick eye, a firm hand and plenty 
of grit and strength. 




GOING FREE. 



SAILING OFF THE WIND 

SAILING off the wind, or going free, is a different 
action from that of saiHng on the wind. SaiHng 
free is purely a natural movement, complicated by 
the fact that a vessel, owing to her weight obliging her to 
rest in the water, cannot m.ove as freely as a fabric wholly 
sustained by the air. The fact that friction of the water 
retards her so that she moves at a less speed than the wind 
that presses her onward permits of her- being steered. 
Another complication that effects the speed of a vessel 
going free is the unevenness of the water, the effect of 
the wind raising surface waves ; these greatly retard and 
hamper her movements. If, instead of rising in waves 
the sea remained smooth a sailing vessel could be driven 
nearly as fast as the wind moves, as is the case with 
ice boats, which on smooth ice move as fast as the wind. 
In sailing to windward the faster a vessel moves the 



44 
more pressure the wind exerts upon her sail. In saiHng 
to leeward this is just the reverse; the faster she goes the 
less pressure the wind exerts. In the first action she is 
constantly approaching the source of the wind, in the 
second receding from it. For instance, if the wind is 
blowing at the rate of 20 miles an hour and a vessel 
sailing before it makes 10 miles an hour the pressure in 
her sails will only be equal to a rate of 10 miles. In 
calculating how much sail to carry the young yachts- 
man must remember this : That a windward breeze is 
nearly double the wind's velocity, that a leeward breeze 
is equal to the wind's velocity minus the boat's speed ; 
so that more sail can be carried off the wind that can be 
carried on it. 

The amount of sail that can be carried off the wind 
depends largely upon the form of the boat and the 
height and action of the sea. If the boat is of a good 
form for running and the water smooth you can carry 
all the sail her spars will stand and she can be steered 
under. But if she is a bad runner, a boat that roots — 
goes down by the head — or chokes up forward, she will 
do better with less sail. On all boats there is a time 
when they reach their maximum speed running and when 



45 
they will go along easier and better with less canvas. 
To do her best when running a boat should be kept on 
an even line — that is, level in the water, and not be 
allowed to shove her head up or drop her stern down. 

In straight stem boats with very little fullness in the 
forward sections the weight of the crew should be kept 
aft, as they have a tendency to root — shove their bows 
down — but in boats with long, full overhangs the weights 
should be kept forward, as the shape of these craft causes 
them to shove out the bow and depress and drag the 
after end. 

The most difficult helming of a boat is off the wind 
in a tall following sea, and great care is necessary then 
in steering a vessel. If the sea is very heavy and the 
wind strong do not try to run directly before it, but beat 
to leeward, first taking the wind on one quarter, and then 
on the other. If you run dead before, be careful not 
to let the boat sheer off the helm on either side, or she 
will be brought by the lee or broach to. If she is brought 
by the lee her mainsail will jibe over. 

You must watch your boat carefully, and you will 
soon learn to anticipate her next movement, first by 
noticing the wave that passes, and second by the feeling 



46 
how she Hfts on the one just overtaking her. As soon 
as the stern hfts she will begin to yaw, as it is called, 
and then you must at once check this movement by 
altering the position of the rudder to prevent her swing- 
ing too far. This is what is called meeting her with the 
helm. 

One piece of advice when running before a sea : Never 
get frightened or rattled, and never look behind you, 
for the sight of a big sea curling up just ready to drop 
on the stern will scare any one but a hardened sea- 
dog. Always carry enough sail to keep the boat racing 
with the waves, or you are liable to get pooped. 
But do not carry too much sail, for if you do the boat 
when on top of a wave if struck, as she usually is in 
such position by a hard puff, is likely to become un- 
manageable and get away from you. 

If you have a boat with a jib, set that and sheet it 
flat amidships; this when she tries to broach to will fill 
and drive her head off. If she steers hard trim your 
mainsheet aft and it will ease her. ^ Lowering the peak 
and topping up the boom will also ease the steering. 
Always top up the boom if the sea is heavy, so as to pre- 
vent the end of the spar striking the water. Never in 



47 
heavy weather square the main boom right off; always 
keep it away from the rigging. 

The hght sails commonly employed off the wind are 
the spinnaker and balloon jib. The former is of very 
little use except with the wind dead aft — that is, directly 
behind. The moment you have to guy the boom forward 
to make it draw it loses its power and the balloon jib 
is a better sail to use. Do not have these sails cut too 
large, as they are then unhandy and cannot be kept 
properly sheeted. Never sheet running sails down hard ; 
give them plenty of lift, especially light jibs. A small 
spinnaker is a great help in steering a boat when running 
before a strong breeze. 



REEFING AND JIBING 

BY reefing is meant the means by which a sail is 
reduced in size by roUing up and tying part of 
it down to a spar. The sail that you will have 
to reef is the mainsail, as the jib on a small boat is 
generally too little to be bothered with in that way. You 
will notice on a sail, stretching across it from luff to 
leach, a band, or sometimes two or three bands, in which 
are inserted short lengths of small line. This is the 
reef band, and the small lengths of rope are called points, 
or knittles. At either end of the band in the edge of the 
sail you will find a hole — or cringle, as it is called. The 
hole at the after end in the leach of the sail is for the 
pendant, a small rope that hauls the canvas aft or back 
towards the stern. The hole at the fore end in the luff 
of the sail is for the tack, a short length of rope that 
ties the luff" of the sail down to the boom. 



49 
There are two wa3^s of reefing. The first and easiest 
way, which can be performed when the boat is at anchor 
or lying- to a dock, is to hoist the sail up until the reef 
band is as high as the boom ; then take the tack and pass 
the ends round the boom, pass the ends back again 
through the cringle several times, if it will go, and then 
tie hard. Having the tack fast, haul out on the pendant, 
which should be rove through a beehole or cheek block 
on the boom; pull on this until the sail's foot is out taut, 
but do not pull until the cloth is strained. When the 
foot is out taut make the pendant fast ; then take a 
short piece of rope and pass it round the boom and 
pendant just at the cringle and through that hole. 
Tie this down hard. This is called the clew lashing. 
Always put on a clew lashing, as it will save the sail 
from being torn. 

Having the tack and pendant fast, begin to tie in the 
points. Get all the slack canvas on one side and roll it 
up tight; then pass one end of the reef point through 
between the lacing and the sail, not round the boom. 
Tie the point ends together with a bow knot, which is a 
reef knot with the loop caught in the tie. Pull all your 
points taut, but be sure and put the same strain on all. 



Begin to tie in the middle first, and then work toward 
both ends. 

To shake out a reef reverse these operations. First 
untie the points, then the clew lashing, then slack in the 
pendant, and last cast loose the tack lashing. Be careful 
to untie all the points, because if you do not you are 
liable to tear the sail when hoisting it. Before shaking 
out a reef, if you have a toppinglift fitted pull up on 
that so as to take the weight of the boom off the sail. 
If the air is damp, or rain or spray knocking about, don't 
haul the sail out very taut or tie the points down hard, as 
the wet will cause the rope and canvas to shrink and 
strain the sail out of shape. Never leave reefs tied in 
sail when stowed, as the canvas will mildew and rot. 

Jibing is the operation of passing a boom sail over 
from one side of the boat to the other when sailing 
off the wind. A great deal of nonsense has been written 
and talked about jibing, and it is commonly supposed to 
be a very dangerous maneuvre. So it is, if carried out 
by incompetent persons or reckless fools in a bad boat, 
but if common sense and caution are used there is no 
danger whatever in jibing a sail at any time. 

The first and most important thing is to keep control 



51 

of the sheet, and to have as Httle of it ont as possible 
when the sail goes over. In order to do this you must use 
the helm with great care to bring the boat slowly round. 
If it is blowing hard top up the boom and llower the 
peak; in this way you can always safely jibe. 

To jibe : Haul in the sheet slowly but steadily, and 
when well aft carefully put the helm up until the wind 
strikes the fore side of the sail. As the boom swings 
across right the helm and then put it the other way, so 
as to catch the boat as she swings off. 

If you have to jibe all standing — what is called a 
North River jibe — that is, with the sheet all off — just as 
soon as boom goes over put your helm hard the other 
way ; this will throw the boat's head so the wind 
will strike the fore side of the sail and break the force 
of the swing. It is very dangerous method, unless you 
are a skillful skipper, and • should never be employed 
except in an emergency. Never jibe in a seaway with 
the sheet off; at such time it is better to lower the peak. 



TAKING CARE OF THE BOA T 

YOU must not only learn to sail, but you must learn 
to take care of your boat, to keep her neat and 
clean, and have everything above and below decks 
in shipshape order. Nothing looks worse than a slovenly 
kept and dirty yacht ; a boat with fag ends of rope hang- 
ing about, loose and tangled messes of gear, sails not 
properly stowed, and a general air of untidiness apparent 
everywhere. The first attribute of good seamanship is 
order. Therefore, if you want to be considered a skill- 
ful sailor, keep your boat both above and below decks in 
shipshape fashion. 

To do this means considerable work. It is no easy job 
to take proper care of even a small yacht, but if you 
regularly attend to the work you will find it come easier 
as you grow more familiar and used to the task. In 
the first place, the boat should be kept pumped out if she 



53 

has a leak, as most boats have ; next, her decks and cock- 
pit should be thoroughly scrubbed and kept as clean as 
possible; the paint round the house and rails washed 
regularly, and her topsides looked to at least once a week. 

Next, keep good watch over the gear; don't let the 
ends of the ropes get fagged out; keep them whipped. 
Always, after coming in from a sail, coil down and clear 
up all the ends of the gear. Keep your rodes and warps 
neatly coiled or Flemished, and not heaped in a tangled 
mass, thrown in any way. Take up on your tackles so 
that ropes don't swing loose, but be careful not to take 
up too hard, if you are not staying on the boat, because 
if dampness or rain sets in the rope will absorb the 
moisture and swell, causing it to contract and shrink 
lengthways. This not only is bad for the cordage, but in 
small vessels it frequently strains and distorts the spars. 

If you have to leave your boat for several days with 
no one to care for her, do not stow your sails too tightly ; 
roll them up loosely, and gasket so that they cannot 
shake out if it comes on to blow. If sails are furled in 
hard rolls the dampness in the canvas will cause them to 
sweat and rot; canvas to keep good wants the air. Sail 
covers are not good things to use, unless they are fre- 



54 
quentiy removed, so as to let the air and sun get at the 
sails. 

If your boat is rigged with metal blocks, turnbuckles, 
etc., these should be frequently oiled and greased, as 
should also the gooseneck and the jaws of the gaff. 
By keeping rust and verdigris ofif the working parts 
of these things you will increase their length of service 
and always have them in good working order. The steer- 
ing gear, if you use a wheel, should be frequently in- 
spected and oiled. If you use a tiller see that it is in 
good condition and not split or weakened where it is 
attached to the head of the rudder post. Steering gear 
accidents are more frequent than any others, and some- 
times lead to disagreeable consequences. 

The chain plates, and the shrouds where they go over 
the mast should be looked at, and also the bobstay and 
other headgear. Make a practice of going over your 
rigging at least once a week during the season, and you 
will be less likely to meet with any mishaps or accidents 
through something unexpectedly giving way. 

Nothing looks better or reflects more credit on a 
young yacht sailor than to have his boat from truck to 
keel in first-class order. It is a certain sign that he under- 



55 
stands his business, takes an interest in sport, and is a 
thorough and skilled sailorman. Of course, he cannot 
if he only spends, say, two days out of the week on board 
keep the boat up to the highest notch of completeness 
and order as a yacht is kept that carries a professional 
crew, but he can keep her neat and clean by giving a 
few hours of his time to the task. But to make the work 
easy let him refrain from covering his deck with brass or 
other fancy gewgaws. Stick to things that don't need 
polishing; the less brass the less work. 

Another thing I would point out to you, and that is, 
when painting the decks or cockpit of a boat do not use 
.light-colored paints. One reason for this is that a light 
color shows every speck of dirt and never can be made 
to look clean, especially if the boat is harbored in places 
where the water is muddy or dirty ; the other reason is 
that light paint reflects the sun and is very trying on the 
eyes. For cockpit, decks and the top of cabin houses, 
use a dark shade of green, grey or slate; green is the 
best for the eyes. 



MANEUVERS 

To TACK : 

When ready to tack first put the helm up shghtly 
so as to give the boat a good fuU, then put it down 
slowly and steadily. As the vessel's bow comes into the 
wind, right the helm, and then as she falls off catch her 
with the helm before she gets too far away from the 
wind. If the water is rough and the boat shows an 
inchnation to miss-stay, give her a good full, slacking 
the sheet slightly to help her get headway, then as you 
put the helm down, haul in smartly on the sheet. 

To TACK A SLOOP I 

A sloop or any rig carrying headsails can be tacked 
as follows : When ready to go about, ease the jib sheet, 
putting down the helm at the same time; as the boat's 
head comes into the wind, haul in the same sheet that 

you just eased, so as to get that sail aback; as she swings 
off slack the weather sheet and haul aft the lee one. 
56 



57 
To TACK A yawl: 

Proceed same as for tacking a sloop, but to aid her 
haul dead-flat the mizzen before putting the helm down. 
In a light air and a lob of sea when a yawl refuses to 
go round, you can sometimes cause her to stay by light- 
ing up the jib and hauling the mizzen boom up on the 
weather side. 
Tacking small boats : 

Small open boats such as dingeys and skiffs which 
are slow at staying can be materially helped by moving 
the weight of the crew forward as they come to the 
wind, and again aft as they fall off. 
Miss-staying : 

Our modern yachts unlike the old fashioned kind 
seldom miss-stay, except when attempted to tack in a 
heavy seaway. The cause of miss-staying is generally 
either carelessness or haste. Always give the boat a 
good full and have way on her before you put the helm 
down. If a boat miss-stay and get in irons do not jam 
the helm hard over, but keep it amidship until she 
gathers stern-way then move it over slowly. Remember 
that the helm when a boat is going stern first acts the 
opposite to what it does when she is going ahead. If 



58 
a centerboard boat pull up the board. If she still 
refuses to fill, drop the peak. 
To wear: 

Wearing or veering is the opposite of tacking. In 
a heavy sea when there is danger of a boat miss-staying 
it is better to wear. To wear, get your sheet in flat, 
then put the helm up slowly and as she pays-off, ease 
the sheet gradually. To wear a yawl ease off the mizzen, 
keep the mainsail flat, and haul the jib a- weather. In a 
centerboard boat haul up the board. In a catboat if she 
refuse to wear drop the peak. 
To anchor: 

The one prime rule of anchoring is never to let go 
the anchor until the boat has stopped going ahead and 
is beginning to go sternwards. In this way you pre- 
vent the anchor being turned over, and brought foul of 
the hawser. Always give an anchor plenty of line or 
scope as it is called. Six times the depth of water is 
sufficient under ordinary conditions. In bad weather 
give all you can spare. 

To GET UNDERWAY : 

If at anchor before making sail heave in short on 
your hawser or chain, but be careful not to take in 






59 
enough to trip the hook, then cast loose and hoist the 
sail, when ready heave in and break the anchor out of 
the bottom. 
To CAST : 

To cast a vessel is to turn her head from an anchor- 
age or mooring so as to make her go off on a chosen 
tack. This is sometimes necessary when anchored be- 
tween other vessels or close to shore. Supposing it is 
necessary in order to clear to take the port tack : Haul 
your mainsail over to starboard, putting your helm the 
same way. This will cause her to make a sternboard 
and her bow will fall off to port. A surer way if at a 
mooring is to pass a light line to the buoy ; carry this 
aft outside of the rigging to the starboard quarter, then 
let go the mooring warp and haul in on the spring line. 
This will cause her head to pay off to port ; when on the 
course let go the spring. To cast her to starboard reverse 
these proceedings. 



RULES OF THE ROAD 

The rules of the road are the rules governing the 
movements of vessels when underway. They are laws 
enacted by an agreement between all maritime nations, 
and obedience to them is compulsory. If in case of a 
collision, it is proved that one of the parties has violated 
a rule of the road, the damages lie against the violator. 
Yachtsmen should thoroughly learn and understand these 
rules, and should always maintain and obey them. 

A steam vessel is any vessel propelled by machinery — 
this includes naphtha, gasolene, kerosene and electric 
launches. 

A sailing vessel is a vessel wholly propelled by sails. 

An auxiliary yacht when using her engines, no matter 

whether she has sail set or not is a steam vessel. If not 

using her engine she is a sailing vessel. 

Steam vessels must keep out of the way of sailing 
60 



6i 

vessels ; sailing vessels must keep out of the way of row- 
boats. 

Vessels of all kinds, when underway, must keep clear 
of anchored craft or craft lying idle or hove-to. 

Overtaking vessels must keep clear of vessels over- 
taken. A sailing vessel overtaking a launch must keep 
clear of the launch. 

When two sailing vessels are approaching one another, 
so as to involve risk of collision, one of them shall keep 
out of the way of the other as follows : 

A vessel which is running free shall keep out of the 
way of a vessel which is close-hauled. 

A vessel which is close-hauled on the pgrt tack shall 
keep out of the way of a vessel which is close-hauled on 
the starboard tack. 

When both are running free, with the wind on 
different sides, the vessel which has the wind on the port 
side shall keep out of the way of the other. 

When both are running free, with the wind on the 
same side, the vessel which is to the windward shall 
keep out of the way of the vessel which is to the leeward. 

A vessel which has the wind aft shall keep out of the 
way of the other vessel. 



62 

Running Lights. 

A sailing vessel, when running at night, carries a 
green light on her starboard side, and a red light on her 
port side. Such lights are generally carried in the rig- 
ging, about six feet above the rail. 

A rowboat must carry a white light in a lantern to 
show when in danger of being run down. 

A steam vessel carries the same lights as a sailing 
vessel, with the addition of a white light at the foremast 
head, or on launches on top of the pilot house. 

A steam vessel, when towing another vessel, carries 
two white lights ; if she is towing more than one vessel, 
tandem fashion, she shall carry three white lights. 

Anchor Lights. 

A vessel when at anchor must keep burning a white 
light, throwing an unbroken flare in every direction ; this 
light should be hoisted above the deck the height of the 
vessel's breadth. 

All lights must be carried from sunset to sunrise ; no 
other lights should be shown. 



*i 



63 

Fog Signals. 

A steam vessel must be provided with a whistle 
operated by steam or air. 

A sailing vessel must be provided with a horn. 

In fog, mist, falling snow, or heavy rainstorms, 
whether by day or night, the signals described shall be 
used : 

A steam vessel underway shall sound, at intervals of 
not more than one minute, a prolonged blast. 

A sailing vessel underway shall sound, at intervals of 
not more than one minute, when on the starboard tack, 
one blast ; when on the port tack, two blasts in succession, 
and when with the wind abaft the beam, three blasts in 
succession. 

A vessel when at anchor shall, at intervals of not 
more than one minute, ring the bell rapidly for about five 
seconds. 

A steam vessel when towing shall, instead of the 
signal prescribed above, at intervals of not more than one 
minute, sound three blasts in succession, namely, one pro- 
longed blast followed by two short blasts. A vessel 



64 
towed may give this signal and she shall not give any 
other. 

All rafts or other water craft, not herein provided for, 
navigating by hand power, horse-power, or by the current 
of the river, shall sound a blast of the fog horn, or equiva- 
lent signal, at intervals of not more than one minute. 

Steam Vessel Signals. 

One blast — I am directing my course to starboard, 
board. 

Two blasts — I am directing my course to port. 

Three blasts — I am going astern. 

The vessel that blows first has the right of way. 

Passing through narrow channels a vessel must keep 
to that bank of the fairway which is on her starboard 
hand. 



GLOSSARY 

Aback — Said of a sail when the wind blows on the back or 

wrong side of it and forces the boat sternwards. 
Abaft — Towards the stern, as abaft the mast. 
Abeam — At right angles to the length of the vessel, as a dock 

is abeam when it bears directly off one side. 
Aboard — On the vessel, as come aboard, get the anchor aboard, etc. 
About — To go about is to tack. 

Adrift — Broken loose, as the boat is adrift, the sheet is adrift, etc. 
Aft — Back or behind, as come aft, haul the mainsheet aft, 

meaning to pull it towards the stern. 
After — As after sails, meaning the sails set behind the mast. 

In a sloop the mainsail is an after sail and the jib a foreward 

one. 
Ahead — In front of, as a buoy is ahead when steering towards it. 
A-LEE — An order to put the helm over towards the lee side. 

The helm is hard a-lee when it is as far over towards the 

lee side as it will go. 
Aloft — Up above. 
Alongside — Close to the side. 
Amidships — In line with the keel. 
Anchor — The instrument used to hold a vessel to the bottom, 

usually made of iron. 

65 



66 

Astern — Behind the vessel. 

Athwart — Across, as athwartships, meaning that a thing is 

lying across the vessel. 
Avast — An order to stop. 
A-WEATHER — An order to put the helm towards the windward 

side. 
Ballast — Weight placed in or hung to the bottom of a boat to 

keep her upright. 
Beating — Tacking. Sailing towards the source of the wind by 

making a series of tacks. 
Becalmed — Being without enough wind to propel the boat. 
Beehole — A hole bored in a spar for a rope to pass through 

and move freely. 
Belay — To make a rope fast to cleat or pin. 
Bend — To bend is to fasten, as to bend a sail, i. e., lace it to the 

spars. Bend the cable, meaning to fasten it to the anchor. 
Bight — The slack or loop of a rope. 
Bilge — The inside of the lower part of the bottom of a boat, 

where the water she leaks in stands. 
Binnacle — A box for the steering compass which can be lighted 

at night. 
Blocks — The instrument through which ropes are rove so as to 

facilitate the hoisting and trimming of the sails, called by 

landsmen pulleys. 
Board — A tack. 
BoBSTAY — A rope generally of wire extending from the end of 

the bowsprit to the stem to hold the spar down. 
Bolt-rope — The rope sewn round the edge of a sail to strengthen it. 
Boom — The spar used to extend the foot of the mainsail or 

foresail. 
Bow — The forward end of a boat. 



67 

Bowsprit — The spar thrust out from the bow upon which the 

jib is set. 
Burgee — The ensign or house flag of a yacht club. 
By the head — A boat is said to be by the head, when she is 

drawing more water forward than aft, or is out of trim 

owing to her bows being overloaded and depressed. 
By the stern — The opposite to by the head. 
By the wind — Same as on the wind, or close-hauled. 
Cable — A rope or chain used to anchor a boat. 
Capsize — To upset. 

Cast off — To loosen, as cast off that line. 
Casting — To pay a boat's head off from a mooring by getting 

the sails aback or by using a spring line. 
Cat rig — A vessel with one mast, placed right in the bow, and 

carrying a single sail. 
Centerboard — A keel that can be lifted up and down. It is hung 

in a trunk or box which is built up inside the boat to keep 

the water out. 
Cleat — A piece of wood, iron or brass used to fasten or belay 

ropes to. 
Clews — The corners of a sail. 
Close-hauled — A vessel is close-hauled when she is sailing as 

close to the wind as possible. 
Coil — To gather a rope into a series of circles so that is will roll 

out again without getting tangled. 
Con — To direct a helmsman how to steer. 
Course — The direction or path which a boat sails. 
Cringle — An eye worked in the bolt rope of a sail for a small 

line to pass through. 
Crotch — Two pieces of wood put together like a pair of scissors 

and used to hold the boom up when the vessel is at anchor. 
DowNHAUL — A rope used to haul a sail down. 



68 

Draught — The depth of water necessary to float a boat, the 
amount in feet and inches a vessel's hull is immersed. 

Drift — To move sideways or sternways, as when a boat is be- 
calmed. The drift of a tide or current is its velocity. 

Ensign — The national flag always flown furthest aft, either from 
the gaff end or on a flagpole over the stern. 

Fathom — Six feet. A measure used by seamen principally to 
designate depths of water. 

Flukes — The broad, arrow-shaped parts of an anchor. 

Fore — The part of a vessel nearest to the bow. 

Fore and aft — Parallel to the keel. A fore-and-after is a vessel 
without square sails like a sloop or schooner. 

Foul — Entangled or caught, as a rope is foul, meaning it is 
caught in someway. To foul another boat is to run into it. 

Furl — To roll up and make sails fast so that the wind cannot 
distend them. 

Gaff — The spar that extends the head of a main or foresail. 

Gasket — A short piece of rope used to tie up sails with, fre- 
quently called a stop. 

Gripe — A boat is said to gripe when she tries to force her bow 
up in the wind, and has to be held off by putting the helm up. 

Halyards — Ropes used to hoist a sail. 

Hanks — Rings made fast to the luff of a jib to hold it to the 
stay up which it is hoisted. On small boats snap-hooks are 
generally used. 

Haul — To pull. 

Heel — A vessel is said to heel when she leans to one side. This 
term is often confused with careen. 

Helm — The tiller. 

Hitch — To hitch is to make fast. A hitch is a simple turn of rope 
used to make fast with. 



69 

HovE-TO — Brought to the wind and kept stationary by having the 

sails trimmed so that part of the canvas pushes the vessel 

backward and part pushes her forward ; often confused with 

lying-to. 
Hull — The body of a vessel. 
Irons — A vessel is in irons when having lost steerageway 

she refuses to obey the helm. 
Jibing — Passing a sail from one side to the other when a vessel 

is sailing free. 
Keel — The largest and lowest timber of a vessel, upon which 

the hull is erected. 
Leach — The after edge of a sail. 

Leeward — The direction toward which the wind is blowing. 
Long leg — The tack upon which a vessel in beating to windward 

remains longest, owing to her point of destination not lying 

directly in the wind. See diagram. 
Log — The record kept of a vessel's work. A ship's diary. Also 

an instrument for ascertaining a vessel's speed through the 

water. 
Luff — The fore edge of a sail, also an order to bring a vessel 

closer to the wind. 
Lying-to— A vessel is lying-to when she is brought close to the 

wind under short sail and allowed to ride out a storm. See 

hove-to. 
Moor — To anchor a vessel with two or more anchors. To tie up 

to a mooring. 
Mooring — A permanent anchor. 
Near — A vessel is said to be near when her sails are not properly 

full of wind, owing to her being steered too close. 
Miss-stay — To fail to tack or go about. 
Off and on — When beating to windward to approach the land 

on one tack and leave it on the other. 



Overhaul — To haul a rope through a block so as to see it all 

clear. To overtake another vessel. 
Painter — The rope attached to the bow of boat by which it is 

made fast. 
Part — To part a rope is to break it. 

Pay off — To pay off is to recede from the wind or from a dock. 
Peak up — To peak up a sail is to haul on the Deak halyards so 

as to elevate the outer end of the gaff. 
Pooping — A vessel is said to be pooped when, owing to her not 

moving fast enough ahead, the sea breaks over her stern. 
Port — The left-hand side of a vessel looking forward, formerly 

called larboard. Designating color, red. 
Preventer — A rope used to prevent the straining or breaking of a 

spar or sail. 
Pennant — A narrow flag, also a short piece of rope commonly 

spelled pendant. 
Quarter — See diagram A. 

Rake — The inclination of a spar out of the perpendicular. 
Reef — To reduce a sail by rolling up and tying part of it to a spar. 
Reeve — To pass a rope through a block. 
Ride — As to ride at anchor. 
Right — A vessel is said to right when after being on her side 

she regains an upright position. 
Right the helm — To put it amidships. 
Rode — A hawser used to anchor with. 

Scope — The length of cable a vessel is riding to when at anchor. 
Serve — To wind cord or canvas round a rope or spar to protect 

it from chafing. 
Seize — To make fast by taking a number of turns with small line. 
Sheer — To sheer is to move away from the proper course. The 

sheer of a vessel is the fore-and-aft curve of the deck line. 
Ship — To ship is to take on board. 



71 

Shiver — To shake the canvas by bringing the luff in the wind. 

Slack — The part of a rope that hangs loose. 

Slip — To slip is to let go of a cable without taking it on board. 

Snub — To check the cable when running out. 

Sound — To try the depth of water by casting the lead. 

Spill — To throw the wind out of a sail by putting the helm 

down or by easing the sheet. 
Spring — To spring a spar is to crack it. 
Spring — A rope used to cast or turn a vessel. 
Stand on — To keep a course — to proceed in the same direction. 
Stand-by — To be ready for action, as stand-by to let go the 

anchor. 
Starboard — The right-hand side looking forward. Designating 

color, green. 
Steer — To direct a vessel by employing the helm. 
Stow — To furl. Properly speaking, a boom sail or any sail that 

lowers down is stowed. Square sails are furled. 
Swig — To haul a rope by holding a turn round a cleat and pulling 

off laterally. 
Tack — To beat to windward. See diagram. 
Tackle — An assemblage of blocks and rope used to hoist and 

control sails, lift spars, etc. 
Taut — Tight. 
Tender- — The small boat carried by a yacht generally called a 

dingey. 
Tow — To drag behind. 
Truck — The uttermost upper end of the mast through which 

the signal halyard is rove. 
Unbend — To untie, as — unbend the cable. 
Wake — The furrow left by the passage of the vessel through the 

water. 



72 

Wear or veer — The opposite of tacking — to turn from the wind. 

Warp — A hawser used to make fast with. To warp is to haul 
or move a vessel by pulling on such a rope. 

Watch — A division of the crew, also the space of time they 
are on duty. 

Way — A vessel's progress through the water. To get underway 
— to set sail, to move off. 

Weather — To weather a vessel or object is to pass to wind- 
ward of it. 

Weather side — The side upon which the wind blows. 

Weather shore — The weather shore is the shore from off of 
which the wind blows if viewed from the sea, but it is the 
shore upon which the wind blows if viewed from the land. 

Weigh or way — To way the anchor is to lift it from the bottom. 

Wind's eye — The exact direction from which the wind blows. 

Windward — Toward the place from where the wind comes. To 
go to windward of another vessel is to pass between her and 
the source of the wind. 

Yaw~To swerve from side to side as a vessel does when run- 
ning free. 



Diagrams and Plans 




DIAGRAM D. BOAT, FROM I TO 6, IS BEARING AWAY OR 

KEEPING OFF FROM THE WIND ; BOAT, FROM 8 TO 
13, IS LUFFING OR NEARING THE WIND. 



75 



DIAGRAM C. 



I — Close-hauled on port 

tack. 
2 — Wind forward of the 

beam. 
3 — Wind abeam. 

4 — " abaft the beam. 

5 — " on the quarter. 
6 — ■ '* astern. 

7 — • " dead astern. 



8 — Jibed over to starboard 

tack. 
9 — Wind on the quarter, 
lo — " abaft the beam. 
II — • " abeam. 
12 — " forward of the 

beam. 
13- — Close-hauled on star- 
board tack. 




SPAR AND RIGGING PLAN OF CAT BOAT. 



77 



SPAR AND RIGGING PLAN OF GAT BOAT. 



I— Hull. 

2 — Cabin house. 

3 — Main mast. 

4 — " boom. 

5- " gaff. 

6 — Companionway 

hatch. 
7 — Main sheet. 
8 — Topping lift. 
9 — Lazy jacks. 



or 



lo — Peak halyards. 

12— " " bridle. 

II — Throat " 

13— ^Jaws of gaff. 

15 — Head stay. 

16 — Shroud. 

17 — Strut. 

18— Bitts. 

19 — Cockpit. 




SAIL PLAN or CAT BOAT. 



79 



SAIL PLAN OF CAT BOAT. 



I — Mainsail. 




6 — Mainsail throat, 


2 


luff. 


7 — " peak. 


3— 


leach. 


8— " tack. 


4— 


head. 


9 — " clewo 


5- '' 


foot. 





L^. 



_fi^ 



^ 



8i 



SPAR AND RIGGING PLAN OF SLOOP. 



I — Freeboard. 

2— Rail. 

3— Mast. 

4 — Main boom. 

5-Gaff. 

6 — Bowsprit. 

7 — Bobstay. 

8— Strut. ' 

9 — Main sheet, 
lo — Peak halyards. 
II — Throat '' 
12 — Topping lift. 
13 — Lazy jacks. 



14 — Preventer or shifting 
backstay. 

15 — Gaff jaws. 

16 — Boom jaws or goose- 
neck. 

17 — Shroud to hounds. 

18 — " to mast head. 

19 — Peak halyard bridle. 

20 — Fore stay. 

21 — Jib stay. 

22 — Fore staysail halyards. 

23 — Jib halyards. 

24 — Cockpit coaming. 



83 



SAIL PLAN OF POLE MAST SLOOP. 

I — Mainsail. 9 — Fore staysail tack. 

4 — " peak. 10 — " '' clew. 

5 — • " throat. 3 — Jib. 

6 — " tack. II— " head. 

7 — " clew. 12 — '' tack. 
2 — Fore staysail. 13 — "*' clew. 

8— " '' head. 




SAIL PLAN OF TOPSAIL SLOOP. 



8c, 



SAIL PLAN OF TOPSAIL SLOOP. 

I — Mainsail. 14 — Jib tack. 

6 — " 'peak. 15 — " clew. 

7 — '* throat. 4 — Jib topsail. 

8— '' tack. 16— " " head. 

9 — " clew. 17 — " " tack. 
2 — Fore staysail. 18 — " '* clew. 

10 — " " head. 5 — Topsail. 

ii_ - - tack. 19— " head. 

12 — '' " clew. 20 — " clew. 
3 — Jib. 21 — " tacko 

13 — " head. 



8; 



SPAR AND RIGGING PLAN OF YAWL. 



I— Hull. 
2 — Cabin house. 
3 — Cockpit rail or coam- 
ing. 
4 — Main mast. 
5 — Alizzen mast. 
6 — Main boom. 
7- _" gaff. 
8 — Mizzen boom. 

9- " gaff, 
lo — Main sheet. 
11^ — Mizzen '' 
12 — Main peak halyards. 



13 — Main throat halyards. 

14 — Mizzen peak 

15 — " throat " 

16 — Main topping lift. 

17 — Mizzen '' " 

18 — Main shrouds. 

19 — Mizzen " 

20 — Jib stay. 

21 — " halyards. 

22 — Bowsprit. 

23 — Bobstay. 

24 — Boomkin. 

25 — '' stay. 



SAIL PLAN OF YAWL. 



I — Mainsail. 


lo — Mizzen throat, 


4— 


peak. 


1 1— '' tack. 


5- " 


tack. 


12— " clew. 


6— 


throat. 


3-Jib. 


8— 


clew. 


13 — '' head. 


2 — Mizzen. 




14— '' tack. 


9- " 


peak. 


15— " clew. 



SAIL PLAN OF KETCH. 



I — Mainsail. 


17 — Fore stavsail clew, 


7 — '* peak. 


4-Tib. 


8— " throat. 


18— " head. 


9 — " tack. 


19 — " tack. 


lo— " clew. 


20— " clew. 


2— Mizzen. 


5 — Jib topsail. 


II — " peak. 


21 — " " head. 


12 — " throat. 


22 — " " tack. 


13— " tack. 


23 — " " clew. 


14 — " clew. 


6 — Topsail. 


3 — Fore staysail. 


24 — " head. 


15— " " head. 


25 — " clew. 


16- " - tack. 


26 — " tack. 



93 



SPAR AND RIGGING PLAN OF SCHOONER. 



I — Freeboard. 

2— Rail. 

3 — Cabin house. 

4_Wheel. 

5 — Fore hatch. 

6 — " mast 

7 — " topmast. 

8— " truck. 

9 — " doubHngs. 
10 — Main mast. 

11 — " topmast. 

12 — " truck. 

13 — Head of main mast and 

doubHngs. 
14 — Fore boom. 
15- " gaff. 
16 — Main boom. 
17- " gaff 
18 — Fore sheet. 

19 — " peak halyards. 

20— " throat 

21 — " peak halyard 

bridles. 



22 — Main sheet. 

23 — " peak halyards. 

24— " throat 

25 — " peak halyard 

bridles. 
26 — Fore topping lift. 
27— Main " ' " 
28 — Preventer backstay or 

runner. 
29 — Topmast preventer 

backstay. 
30 — Bowsprit. 
31 — Bobstay. 
32 — Fore stay. 
33 — Fore staysail halyards. 
34— Jib stay. 

35 — " halyards. 

36 — " topsail stay. 

37 — " '' halyards. 
38 — Triatic stay. 

39— Spring stay. 

40 — Main topmast stay. 



^w 



to 



CI 



.^ 



«0 



% 



^ 



95 



SAIL PLAN OF SCHOONER. 



I — Mainsail. 

9 — " peak. 

10 — " throat. 

11 — " tack. 

12 — " clew. 
2 — Fore sail. 

13 — " '' peak. 

14— " " tack. 

15 — " " clew. 
3 — Fore staysail. 

16— " ^" head. 

17— " '' tack. 

18 — " '' clew. 
4-Jib. 

19 — " head. 

20 — '* tack. 

21 — " clew. 



5 — Jib topsail. 
22— " " head. 
23 — Jib topsail tack. 

24 — " " clew. 
6 — Main topsail. 

25 — " " head. 

26 — " " clew. 

27— " " tack. 
7 — Fore topsail. 

28— " " head. 

29 — " '' clew. 

8 — ]\Iain topmast staysail. 

30- " 

head. 
31 — Upper tack. 
32 — Lower tack. 
33— Clew. 



96 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

The following books are recommended to the young 
yachtsman. From them he can obtain information of 
value, and a study of their pages v/ill materially aid him 
in gaining a thorough knowledge of the seaman's art : 

On Yachts and Yacht Handling Day 

Hints to Young Yacht Skippers Day 

Small Boat Sailing ' Knight 

Boat Sailor's Manual Qualtrough 

Knots and Splices. Jntsum 

Canoe Handling Vaux 

Elements of Navigation Henderson 

How to Swim Dalton 



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A Deep Water Voyage. By Paul E. Stevenson $1-25 

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Around the World in the Yacht Sunbeam. By Lady Brassey 2.50 

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Dog Watches at Sea. By Stanton H. King 1.50 

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Down Channel. By R. T. McMullen 1.50 

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Four Months in a Sneak Box. By N. H. Bishop 1.50 

For Love of Country. By Cyrus Townsend Brady 1.25 

For Freedom of the Sea. By Cyrus Townsend Brady 1.50 

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In the South Seas. By Robert L. Stevenson 1.50 

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John Ship, Mariner. By Knarf Elivas 50 

Life of John McGregor 2.00 

Moby Dick; or, The White Whale. By Melville 1.25 

Many Cargoes. By W. W. Jacobs i.oo 

More Cargoes. By W. W. Jacobs = i.oo 

Omoo. A real Romance of the South Sea. By Melville 1.25 

On Many Seas. By H. E. Hamblen. 1.50 

Out of Gloucester. By Connolly 1.50 

Paul Jones, Founder of the American Navy. By Buell (2 vols.) 3.00 

Rob Roy on the Baltic. By John MacGregor 1.50 

Round the Horn before the Mast. By Lubbock 2.15 

Songs of Sea and Sail. By Thos. Fleming Day 1.50 

Sailing Alone Around the World. By Capt. Joshua Slocum 2.00 

Sea Scamps. By H. C. Roland 1.50 

The Falcon, Baltic. By C. F. Knight 1.25 

The Cruise of the Golden Wave. By W. N. Oscar 1.25 

The Cruise of the Petrel. By T. Jenkins Hains 1.50 

The Grip of Honor. By Cyrus Townsend Brady 1.50 

The Log of a Sea Waif. By Frank T. Bullen 1.50 

The Mate of the Good Ship York. By Russell 1.50 

The Nation's Navy. By Morris 1.50 

The Port of Missing Ships. By J. R. Spear 1.25 

The South Seas. By R. L. Stevenson 1.50 

The Story of America's Cup. By C. P. Tower Paper 25c.; cloth .50 

The Story of a Yankee Boy. By Hamblen 1.50 

The Wind Jammers. By T. Jenkins Hains 1.25 

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